Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to discover these tales and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
